After a colorful Spring collection, Ralph Rucci dialed things back for pre-fall, opting to use primarily black and navy and experimenting with fabrics instead. Having discovered and fallen in love with a neoprene-bonded cashmere at a mill in Florence, he used it to create some memorable coats, especially the one with his signature curved sleeves and a seriously major to-the-ankles cape. On the more practical side, there was an all-weather canvas-silk trench with a removable stamped rabbit lining at the collar and cuffs. Another piece of outerwear worth mentioning: a leather blazer with elaborate trapunto stitching on the back and a long line of buttons on the sleeves, so they can be worn rolled up to the elbows.

Rucci tried his hand at some new dress silhouettes, adding dolman sleeves to one nipped-waist frock and cutting an amethyst silk-velvet cocktail number with a plunging V. Neither of them rivaled the simplicity of a sleeveless, zip-front wool jersey sheath. As for gowns, he showed only one, but it was a beauty: narrowly cut and sleeveless in black silk velvet with leather insets.