January 21, 2013 Paris
Damir Doma's rue St. Honoré store is six months old. The designer is a quick study—having observed that "women buy the easier things," he made them the focus of his new pre-fall collection. Scaling back the capital-F fashion of his Spring show gave Doma's signatures more breathing room. His years in menswear mean he's good with a boyish-cut pantsuit; this time around it came in a soft washed black corduroy with leather piping. He used the same corduroy for a slouchy A-line skirt that was paired with the other star of the collection, a cool sweater in a slightly oversize, elongated shape that was hole-punched in a python pattern. The knits were a highlight here; perhaps no surprise, considering Doma's menswear show riffed on seventies German ski clubs. Also satisfying his accessible-with-an-edge criteria was a long-sleeved dress with a pointy, asymmetrical hem in a nubby silk of his own design.
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