December 04, 2012 New York
Bodysuits and body dresses abounded, but suiting also played a star role. Belted peplum jackets worn with skirts that alternately clung or flared boldly to below the knee were sensual and feminine. Round was a key word: Shrugs and coats came cocoon-shaped, and a cropped silk sweatshirt worn with a high-waisted pencil skirt had a sporty ease. Fluid was another one: The tucking, draping, and folding on evening dresses gave them a poured-on feeling that jibed with the Weiss sculptures the designer installed in the showroom for the occasion.
Karan opted not to use fur in this collection. In its place she came up with two compelling substitutes: a crushed wax velvet that from a distance looked like astrakhan, and a laser-cut leather and chiffon. Both are lightweight enough to be worn year-round. You can't say that about mink.