Maison Martin Margiela
typically swims against fashion's currents, but the house's new pre-fall collection tapped in to what is bound to be a major theme next month: punk. Between Karl Lagerfeld's tartan kick and the upcoming Costume Institute exhibition, you can trust the Fall runways will be inundated with references to Malcolm McLaren, the Clash, et al. Each look here was shown with thick-soled python combat boots, and most of them were accompanied by a fistful of steely rings. Ever seen a Margiela miniskirt? Neither had we, until now. The label's new thigh-grazers had serious attitude, as did a painted leather vest paired with a "jumpsuit-dress." But the atelier also revisited more familiar concepts like oversize proportions and masculine tailoring. An ultra-chunky sweater was worn over a shearling jacket, while bottle-green-colored furs of all sorts were piled one on top of the other. Punk or not, this was an approachable Margiela outing—they saved the face masks for Couture.