' specialty is refining everyday basics. At a preview of her pre-fall collection, the designer held up a gauzy ribbed cashmere tank and compared it to "a really nice version of the classic Hanes." Knitwear (the perfect chunky cardigan, a classic crewneck with a built-in capelet) is essential to her design DNA, but Patmos is now focused on expanding her range. The way she updated classics like cropped trousers and pencil skirts in a metallic satin twill felt special, ditto a half-sleeve swing jacket cut from mohair bouclé. Too bad, then, that her lookbook's styling—piled-on fur pelts, leather obi belts, hiking socks—tended to distract from the beautiful simplicity of the clothes.