On Prabal Gurung's pre-fall moodboard: stills from Baz Luhrmann's Romeo + Juliet, vintage Versace and Versus ads, and pics of his native Nepal. That's a lot of different references to stir together, but he did so with a lighter hand than he used on his most recent runway, and it paid off. "Ease" was Gurung's mantra. Although he didn't go so far as to put an actual tracksuit in the lineup, he did turn the marled gray fabric of sweats into a print, whipping up a sleeveless dress piped in blue and a good-looking jacket and pair of trousers.

Still, Gurung loves a print, and there was no shortage of them here, the best, by far, being the turquoise and pink lily motif of a three-quarter-sleeve sheath. Pattern also found its way onto the multicolor metallic tweed he used to trim a coat, as well as his knits, a burgeoning category that ranges from simple crewnecks and cardigans to clingy dresses. For high evening, a subject that is much on designers' minds with awards season rolling around, Gurung once more put the emphasis on simplicity. Color rules on the red carpet these days, but our money is on a black gown draped in silk jersey from a leather harness.