December 11, 2012 New York
Take the leather perfecto they opened with. Painted white and cut in an oversize, boxy shape, it could've marched down a catwalk, and it just may come February. The designers excel at creating desire, be it with the unique "plaster-y" knit they used for their second-skin turtleneck, an item that's been turning up in more predictable materials everywhere this month, or by rethinking what a logo print could be. In their hands, it doesn't look like a logo at all, rather a graphic black and white motif they used for wrap dresses and bias-cut pants that spiraled down the legs. The new Courier bag, a softer, unstructured take on the hit PS1 bag, seems poised for similar success.
A trip to Fiji inspired their photo prints of watery caves. Rendered more simply than the patchworked frocks at their Spring show, the pinafore and T-shirt dresses (with built-in corsets) on which the prints appeared just might've been the most covetable pieces in the lineup.