The Florentine Renaissance was ground zero for Roberto Cavalli this season. 'Twas ever thus, perhaps, but the fact that he explored engineered prints based on palazzos for Spring didn't detract from the power of his new clothes. Where the pieces on his runway a few months back were bare and deconstructed—undone—these were super-fitted. They'll go the distance, while, admit it, the more editorial pieces from his ready-to-wear show were lucky to go all the way down the red carpet without a nipple slip.

For pre-fall, Cavalli has discovered the virtue of covering up. Long-sleeved dresses outnumbered sleeveless ones, and smokings, with shirts buttoned all the way up to the neck, were super-sharp. Fur came in real and faux varieties. In the former category, a patchwork fox had serious Glamazon factor. In the latter, a black-and-white skunk print was surprisingly appealing on a matching trench and flared trousers.