January 07, 2013 New York
Take, for instance, the black-and-gold jacquard in a blown-out camo pattern, used to perfection in a loose coat. Throw that on over jeans, and presto: You're the most insouciantly glam girl ever to bestride this humble earth. Likewise, pretty much all the pieces in the season's raisin-brown stretch brocade had an element of, well, drabness that was wholly unexpected from such a material. Zanini does rakish understatement very, very well. But he also does plain old statement with just as much confidence, if not more. The other standout coat here was a swingy black number in a mohair knit that almost exactly mimicked astrakhan; it's impossible to imagine it going out of style. And you only had to take one look at Zanini's black and pink, half-duchesse-satin, half-velvet gown to understand that he's a designer exceedingly fluent in elegance. If that gown doesn't show up on the red carpet this awards season, then all Hollywood stylists should be fired at once.