Rochas designer Marco Zanini has a reputation for being quirky. The word does him a disservice: Zanini has endeared himself to idiosyncratic yet fashionable young women due to the sly way he weaves a little eccentricity into his very luxe, very polished clothes. To be sure, you could locate some quirk in the latest Rochas collection—the chenille pieces and varsity "ROCHAS" sweaters were tossed off and a bit silly—but for the most part, the elements of off-ness here were winning and carefully considered.

Take, for instance, the black-and-gold jacquard in a blown-out camo pattern, used to perfection in a loose coat. Throw that on over jeans, and presto: You're the most insouciantly glam girl ever to bestride this humble earth. Likewise, pretty much all the pieces in the season's raisin-brown stretch brocade had an element of, well, drabness that was wholly unexpected from such a material. Zanini does rakish understatement very, very well. But he also does plain old statement with just as much confidence, if not more. The other standout coat here was a swingy black number in a mohair knit that almost exactly mimicked astrakhan; it's impossible to imagine it going out of style. And you only had to take one look at Zanini's black and pink, half-duchesse-satin, half-velvet gown to understand that he's a designer exceedingly fluent in elegance. If that gown doesn't show up on the red carpet this awards season, then all Hollywood stylists should be fired at once.