December 11, 2012 New York
Aside from the military coats, which Burch executed in gently oversize shapes, the focus here was on knitwear and on beading. The beading was emphatic—attested to by the weight of a peasant-y, olive-colored dress, among other much-embroidered-upon garments. The knits, meanwhile, provided similar graphic effects but via intarsia; looks such as a pencil-slim, tile-patterned knit suit came off polished yet cozy. They'll do very well at retail. Elsewhere, there was a lot of charm to be found in this collection's details, to wit, the plum velvet trim limning an olive drab coat or the way a pattern of distressed beads was mirrored against the same pattern, in bright red flock. She used a similar trick, too, in one of her strongest looks, which set a skirt of red-toned woven raffia against an intarsia knit top that mimicked its weave. All in all, Burch's ever-so-humble starting point for this collection led her in rich and varied directions.