Thakoon Panichgul took his signature line in an elegant direction for pre-fall. His less expensive Addition line, by contrast, has more of a tomboy vibe, the prime example being a marled gray wool heavy-gauge sweater that fastens up the back worn with matching drawstring-waist jogging pants. It doesn't get more chillaxed than that.

Where his main collection was focused on dresses, the emphasis here was separates, sometimes with the same sense of quirk as that sweatsuit (see the shorts set whipped up in plaid fleece). More often than not, though, these pieces delivered a hefty dose of chic. "I love leopard, but not a cougar-y leopard," he said, showing off a cocoon coat in an understated black-on-gray version of the familiar cat print. A classic mac was elevated with leather insets. In fact, leather made many appearances, as patchwork on denim jackets and pants, trimming the collar of an A-line poplin tunic, or full-on in the form of a red strapless dress. "Customers feel like they're getting a lot of value for the price," he said, explaining the uptick. Value is an idea that's not lost on Panichgul. That leopard coat comes with a removable lapel—meaning that if you buy it, you get two looks for the price of one.