"Easy and cute" are not words we ever thought we'd hear Nicola Formichetti utter in regards to his Mugler collection, but nearly two years in, the creative director and his design partner, Sébastien Peigné, have learned a lot about customers, and how big a part relatability plays in making a sale. There was still something futuristic going on in the label's first-ever pre-fall collection. Maybe it was just more down-to-earth.

It was certainly far-ranging. Formichetti mentioned the sixties, the eighties, and the nineties (both Lady Miss Kier's nineties and Kurt Cobain's). That contributed to the something-for-everyone feeling: proper skirtsuits in a novelty wool from Japan, separates in a psychedelic print from Mugler's archives, and furs in colors that "look like you can eat them," as well as the pointy-shouldered jackets, perfectos, and body-conscious dresses they've been doing since the beginning.

Formichetti said they're working on the Fall collection, and "feeling the sweet vibe." Before the show, he'll be in New York to promote Mugler's new bag range. The star of the collection is the Naboo; his fans will be pleased to note that it's got his sci-fi stamp all over it.