Yeohlee Teng had schoolgirls (and boys) on her mind when designing pre-fall. "It veers toward uniforms," she said, referring to a pleated, plaid knee-length skirt and a silk tie blouse. The plaid, a recycled fabric, also appeared on a jerkin (a vest that doubled as a jacket) and on a borrowed-from-the-boys shirt worn with a cropped pants suit.

In order to maintain the sustainability ethos and zero-waste manufacturing ethos associated with her label, Yeohlee said she designs backward. "I know my clients, so I create pieces that will allow them to build on their wardrobes," she said. "That just makes sense to me." A pencil skirt constructed out of two pieces of rectangular fabric may require a little thinking outside of the box, but a persimmon wool coat with intricate seaming would serve the Yeohlee customer well, as would a long "road warrior" vest with strong shoulders done in a recycled wool.