has seen the light. After a Fall season of brooding, almost gothic looks, he embraced color for Resort. Instead of velvets, there were shimmering brocades; in place of the jet embroidery we'd been seeing from him, there were faux pearls; and rather than black for evening, he showed vivid colors. "After you've gone through a dark time, you want something cheerful. It's only natural," he said. An old Jacques Tati movie, Mon Oncle
, got him thinking along vaguely midcentury lines. Cristobal Balenciaga volumes turned up on the sleeves of bright faille gowns and silk mikado blouses, and suit jackets had the master's familiar egglike shapes. The silvery pink brocade he used for those skirtsuits had a vintage quality, as did the faded damask print of a belted shift dress with embroidered stones around the neckline. Gn is in expansion mode, with two new boutiques soon in the works in Saudi Arabia. They should open later this year, around the time this strong collection is ready to hit stores.