Anjelica Huston in her 1970's modeling heyday was the rarest bird in fashion. Her haughty angularity was fashion geometry made flesh, and designers loved her for it. Trust Antonio Marras to pluck her from the mists of model-time as the inspiration for his Resort collection. His muses are always strong, wayward women. And Huston made perfect sense with the edge of the clothes.

Marras was also looking at design group Memphis this season. (They're bubbling up as an inspiration—Donatella dipped her toe in the Memphis pool as well). That meant sharp prints but also a striking collaged approach to fabrics, as in Antonio's own favorite in the collection, a shift that combined lace, jacquard, and a panel of silicon pleats. And maybe there was some Memphis iconoclasm in the mutant sportswear of an A-line baseball jacket and oversized polo.

But the collection's odd couture inflections were purest Marras. A three-quarter-sleeved trapeze coat in jacquard and lamé had plastic detailing. So did a coat in bubble gum pink lace. A marine group striped in navy and white was refreshingly simple by comparison.