June 24, 2012 New York
"We've finally hatched," Bibhu Mohapatra said at a Resort appointment this morning. The designer was referring to a recent spatial upgrade from the CFDA Incubator space to an expansive new studio all his own. But he could very well have been talking about his young label, which is hitting its stride after several seasons spent refining its identity and customer base. A recent trip to Marrakech gave rise to the new lineup, which was full of vibrant colors like saffron yellow and sunset pink, as well as geometric patterns inspired by Moorish architecture. Structured silk frocks with waist-framing insets and sporty zippers exemplify how Mohapatra is expanding his daywear while still maintaining the element of drama he's known for. Meanwhile, slim cotton trousers overlaid with lace were a nice separates solution for cocktail hour—you could dress them up with a feathery tank (as seen in the lookbook) or down with a T-shirt. These pants especially felt fresh hanging next to Mohapatra's more predictable flowing evening gowns.
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