June 19, 2012
The news at Chado was color. Ralph Rucci is a man who likes to work in tonalities of white, tan, and black and come up with evocative names for each, but for Resort, he went Pantone on us. The strongest pieces were a series of matte jersey dresses—as slinky and sexy as anything he's done despite their long sleeves. A scarf-neck, plunge-front style in amethyst was particularly persuasive. The other pieces that stood out were designed to cover up rather than cling, but they'll attract attention nonetheless. The first was a grass green tunic in pongee silk with a deep navy hem, shown with matching green pajama pants; the second was a white caftan in the same pongee silk but cut slimmer than he usually makes them, banded with navy and blush pink. Keep the sunscreen and the salt water far from these beauties; they're too special to wear to the beach. Special is what Rucci, well, specializes in, but his evening offerings were rather subdued. Clients looking for a glittering New Year's Eve gown will find only one here, in white lace smothered in caviar beads with a matching floor-length coat to match.