For Resort, Costume National
is picking up where it left off with its "New Wave-No Wave-Dark Wave" Fall collection, but giving the clothes a lighter feel via fluid fabrics and welcome shots of safety orange and electric cobalt. There was a definite post-punk influence in head-to-toe leather looks studded with grommets, but the rock vibe was subdued considerably on pieces like a crisp white crepe trench with asymmetric leather flap details. Print is something you don't see CN designer Ennio Capasa flirt with often, but the moody orchids on a short-sleeved shift (a reported best seller) and a graphic magnified-linen pattern were definite high points in this sea of solids. For evening, fluttering chiffon gowns, especially a halter-neck style, nicely balanced stark with soft elements and effectively encapsulated the season's message.