Never one to soft-pedal his gifts, Giorgio Armani dubbed his Emporio Resort collection Flawless. What immediately stood out was that, after seasons when he dipped his toe in obvious influences like the Orient, he'd returned to classic Armani. Wise move—the season's best seller has been the most signature piece, a softly tailored double-breasted jacket, diagonal closing, no lapel.

"Simple, light, and feminine" was what Armani was after. He used leather, linen, and silk as the means to that end. That meant, on the one hand, a raw-cut leather skirt, and on the other, pretty silk cocktail dresses, washed with watercolor like an artist's brushstrokes. Somewhere in the middle, there were a grosgrain ribbon jacket and lingerie-influenced pieces in charmeuse. Quite the range. You mightn't expect a reminder of the breadth of the Armani vocabulary in this context. Nevertheless, here it was.