Sensualité, the name Giorgio Armani gave his Resort collection, was perhaps overegging the pudding a little for clothes that placed practicality before pleasures of the flesh. Armani went straight for the commercial jugular, no flights of fancy, just a clear, comprehensible emphasis on the jackets and pants his women want from him, with the added attraction of the bermuda shorts he promoted for Fall. Here, they had been given a pleatlike fold at the sides to add a little aerodynamic volume. The same fold was inserted into jacket darts, with the same result. It clarified the ease of the collection, somewhere between structure and sportswear.

Armani continued that dialogue into tops with a little swing-back volume and an approach to pants that was even more relaxed than usual, thanks to bias pleats. It was all in the interests of lightness and movement. That also explained the silk gauzes and organzas and the palette of soft pastels, particularly a mint green, which was very untypical of the designer. Truth be told, the shorts and backless top in midnight organza stood out like thumbs that are the exact opposite of sore.