June 24, 2012 Milan
"I'm always interested in light," Gabriele Colangelo said at a preview of his Resort collection. This season, the designer started with a long-exposure photo of the urban landscape, its lights glowing in the blur. Screened on shift dresses and pencil skirts, the motif became a kind of collection totem. It was transformed into faux plaids (a print actually made up of photos of streaks formed by fast-moving lights), shining threads of Lurex woven into a 3-D jacquard, and, somewhat less successfully, into sequins glittering among tufts of alpaca. The silhouettes, meanwhile, continued Colangelo's explorations of midcentury styles à la Dior. They were, however, much shorter than the master's. Call it a concession to modernity. Same goes for the sporty stopper pulls scattered throughout, on simple shifts and skirt hems.
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