An old photo of Hubert de Givenchy's muse Bettina (she predated Audrey Hepburn) got Riccardo Tisci thinking "gypsy" for Resort. Scarf prints were the collection's dominant motif, but bohemian this wasn't. Tisci cut the swirling paisleys in shades of red, blue, and gold with geometric blocks of black and white. If he's the one who made the fashion world mad for prints, their graphic treatment here puts him ahead of the field once again. The effect was particularly striking on the collection's opening look, a belted evening dress with long sleeves slit all the way to the shoulders. The capelike look repeated itself on shirts and outerwear, while extended tailcoat details that grazed the ankles on some of the looks likewise added drama.

Tisci's gypsy theme continued with slouchy-through-the-rear-and-thigh sarouel pants, but again they were paired with tailored button-downs or the boxy, almost architectural T-shaped jackets and tops that have become a house signature. On the phone from Paris—a back-to-back menswear show and haute couture presentation kept him away—he called the look "romantic, but with a sharpness." We're hooked.