"I had fun with this one," Jonathan Saunders said, riffling through the eye-popping racks at his Resort presentation. Color, separates, and the seventies were the takeaways from the collection, along with a new Cutler and Gross-manufactured sunglasses capsule and a 12-piece evening dress range made with Hollywood types in mind.

The Scottish designer is in growth mode, and it's easy to see why. For one thing, there's the mix-and-match versatility that his emphasis on sportswear provides. "When people stopped being afraid of separates, it opened up a whole new world for me," he said. And for another (and this is more important), there's an approachable irreverence to these clothes—the straightforward shapes and the surprising colors and patterns. His ombré polka-dot pieces practically vibrate, they're so bright, and there's no ignoring graphic, almost "off" combinations like a cherry red polo sweater in a slimming viscose knit and leaf green jacquard pants. "Optimistic," he called the collection. Who can resist that?