June 24, 2012 London
Anderson's inspiration this time out was "Sunday clothes"—or, as he put it, the dressy looks that nice, bourgeois ladies wear to church. And there was something mumsy about this collection's range of mid-calf dresses and skirts, a tone played against by the pieces' execution in materials like vinyl-varnished taffeta and boiled nylon. The silhouettes helped with the update, too—Anderson's dresses, for instance, were surprising in their geometry and scale—as did the collection's palette, an entirely intuitive mix of Pepto pink, tonal grays, and blues and bright red and yellow redolent of the McDonald's logo. Elsewhere, Anderson added menswear grace notes—new soft-tailored jackets in pinstriped navy, and shirting such as dickeys and workwear smocks. The combination of full skirts and bandeaux read as Prada-esque—and Anderson did get his start at that label—but he took ownership of the look with a sharp, minimalist reinterpretation. All in all, this was a strong outing for Anderson. Indeed, taking obligation for opportunity, Anderson seized on this Resort collection to present his most thorough and refined vision for womenswear yet.