Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig's Marchesa label is practically synonymous with big red-carpet moments. Big being the operative word. Tulle, gazar, and lace by the yard go into their grandest ball gowns. For Resort, they reined in their decorative tendencies, and it paid off. Celebrity stylists will be vying with each other for first dibs at a stretchy dove gray lace long-sleeved column embroidered with gold and silver studs. A shorter light blue lace dress with an asymmetric hem followed similar body-hugging lines. Its short sleeves gave it a fresh feel—biceps are suffering from a case of Hollywood overexposure.

Chapman said she was thinking about English gardens when she was working on the new range, which explains the vibrant pink hues of a corded lace one-shoulder cocktail dress and another pouf of a thing in silk gazar. But their clients come back to them for white dresses and they aim to please, especially during the pre-collections, which they described as their "customer-directed" seasons. The best white gown in the bunch was body-conscious, too. It came in a silk crepe "with some give" and pleated tulle angel-wing sleeves.