June 17, 2012 London
The news at Markus Lupfer this season is materials. Forget the campy Lupfer lips, stretched here to even sillier proportions, and look past the novelty graphics like hamburgers and retro cars: Lupfer's a showman and he loves a bit of fun, but of late he's been addressing himself to the serious business of elevating the feel of his clothes, and this time out, it was his fabrics that gave the collection its punch. Take, for instance, the technical jacquard, used in a short, neon coral-colored dress with a cutout midriff. Up close, the jacquard, though pliant, had a cool, plastic feel in keeping with the inspiration of "American slickness." Elsewhere, Lurex metallics and coated tweeds echoed the theme. His coated tweed motorcycle jackets with ruffled peplums are going to fly at retail; likewise the metallic pants and short, kick-pleat skirts. Lupfer has a knack for making basic pieces that feel and look special—or, if you prefer, special pieces that can be worn like basics. Not a showman's trick, but still a good one.
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