Don't be put off by the hermaphrodite polar bears. One of the pleasures of a Mother of Pearl collection is the way it challenges your expectations of what you'd like to see in a print or an intarsia knit. This season, debuting the brand's first Resort collection, Maia Norman and Amy Powney worked with artist Gary Hume—one of the original YBAs—and adapted his colorful canvases into eye-popping floral pieces and pastel-toned cashmeres featuring, yes, hermaphrodite polar bears. Previous outings have seen Mother of Pearl make neat work of Fred Tomaselli's vicious birds and Fiona Banner's dry ISBN numbers.

The trick here is the designers' commitment to luxe fabrications and finicky cuts; a pair of Hume-floral jogging pants or a square gray parka with a contrasting pale pink leather hood wouldn't amount to much if they weren't executed in top-notch materials. The new peplum theme, witnessed in both tops and skirts, might have come off heavy-handed if the shapes had been handled with less flair. Those peplums add a welcome feminine note to MoP's sporty mien, but Norman and Powney don't mistake femininity for fussiness. You could easily imagine the Mother of Pearl girl—or woman, for that matter—wearing one of these peplum skirts with the same ease she would the collection's quilted running shorts. Topped off with a silk button-down in a hermaphrodite polar bear print, natch.