Given fashion's obsession with novelty, it was a bit of a shock to walk into Marios Schwab
's East London studio and discover that his new collection looks, well, a lot like his last one. That's not a bad thing: Schwab has doubled down on some very good ideas, and the fact that he saw fit to do so is proof that he's hit his stride as a designer. The key idea here, as with last season, was the palimpsest layering of gossamer materials such as sheer silk and net; he worked metallic beading and sequins between the layers to create quicksilver effects or played tonal colors together to mimic the dappled look of liquid. The layering made for some very evocative, elegant eveningwear—it's no wonder his dresses have been turning up on the red carpet—but his Resort innovation was to use the technique in simpler pieces that could translate for day.
Indeed, Schwab increasingly is emphasizing casual looks and separates; see the satin cigarette pant and leather skirt, elaborated with belt hardware, and the cashmere knits with cutout blob shapes (another reiteration from Fall). His casual clothes aren't exactly the kind of thing you'd spend a Sunday mooching around in, but these pieces, and the softness of the collection in general, indicate that Schwab has moved beyond his fetish for constriction and is thinking hard about comfort and ease. Perhaps the surest sign of that could be found in his signature body-con numbers: The harnessing and corsetry looked binding, but the fabric was stretch.