Michael van der Ham
June 18, 2012 London
The cuts everywhere were impeccable, and there was a nice sense of detail, as in the gathers around the collarbone of a cutout blouse. These clothes will do well at retail, in particular the simplest looks, such as a narrow bouclé shift. Still, it was hard to escape the sense that the collection was a little too undemanding, although it's understandable that van der Ham would hew conservative and commercial for Resort, especially his first time out. Here's hoping that he pushes his silhouettes a little more next season and that he gives himself more rein to play with the weird, gaudy, ugly aspect of his aesthetic. Those furry jacquards, for instance, were genuinely idiosyncratic and almost grotesque—and in fact, van der Ham said he'd be using a version of the material again for Spring. Seems like a good start.