The indomitable Alessandro Dell'Acqua bounced back with a new manufacturer—Gilmar—for his Resort collection, but the attitude of the clothes was his usual mix of proper, naughty, and sporty. Like the brocade dress that spun on its heel to reveal a black lace shell with a long zip. Or the striped sweater that had lingerie detailing in back. The curious combo is quite the Dell'Acqua forte. Here, a sequined skirt was paired with what was, in essence, a baby's jacket in black duchesse. In a capsule collection of beachwear, flamingos and metallics cavorted together. A lace tee was printed with an incongruous surf motif, although that could have been a look back at Dell'Acqua's scuba-loving past.

The designer talked about "a relaxed way to look dressed up," which was embodied by the sweatshirt and embroidered skirt pairing. But it was a real challenge to picture the kind of woman whose wardrobe would be defined by these clothes.