Oscar de la Renta
May 20, 2012 New York
That said, he never let you forget you were at an Oscar show. The familiar de la Renta-isms—the skirtsuit, the sleeveless day dress, the double-face coat, the perfect pair of high-waisted trousers—were all here, rendered in sharp, graphic pops of black and white. And there were flowers galore, from lush embroideries on party dresses to blown-up photo prints on silk tunics and cropped pants. Florals are part of the house repertoire, but if the appliqués were tried and true, the photorealistic patterns, having bloomed on other designers' runways for several seasons now, felt a bit me-too.
The dress that made everyone sit up and take notice was a strapless evergreen silk faille gown. It was classic Oscar—as elegant and ladylike as they come. And with a generous peplum at the waist it was equally of the moment.