June 12, 2012 New York
This season's came in two main groups—both of which were smart departures from Fall, which was faulted somewhat for being too similar to their previous collection. The first was quite geometric. Printed as it sometimes was on silk cloque, the results looked almost quilted. The second motif was inspired by research they did on centuries-old illuminated manuscripts in London's Royal Library; these were more evocative of stained glass. Both prints produced some fabulous dresses, and the designers continue to forge ahead into other categories like macintosh jackets and full-legged pants. But some of the collection's most captivating pieces weren't made from prints at all. Instead, they gave a high-tech oversize mesh fabric the couture treatment with crystals and sequins. Really special and really smart.