Emilio Pucci's New York flagship is scheduled to open in September, followed by a Milan outpost next February, and nine more shops after that. If Peter Dundas' new Resort collection had a more urban feel than usual, the big retail rollout is why. A global empire isn't built on beachy caftans alone, though Dundas did show a few beauties in weightless silk, one with insets of delicate lace butterflies and another elaborately embroidered with a dragon. Their accompaniments, grosgrain weave military belts, could start a run on them at surplus stores.

Sporty daywear with a safari/military vibe was the emphasis here, jolted by more than a touch of Dundas' signature brand of sex appeal. The opening suede shirtdress, for instance, laced provocatively up the sides and a leather dress featured a plunging open-V back, while the knit tanks he paired with slick tailored jackets and cargo pants were daringly sheer. A slim white T-shirt dress stitched with raffia provided a sweet counterpoint. The show's best look was a peach and army green washed-silk bomber jacket and matching green pencil skirt. It got the sexy-cool combo just right.