June 20, 2012
For Resort, the Cavalli taste for the finer things applied itself to porcelain. That's a more decorous indulgence than the house sometimes attempts, and it lent itself to a frothier, more serene collection than some of seasons past. Or at least as serene as head-to-toe print can be. "I'm very into total look this year," Eva Cavalli said as she fingered the seemingly endless racks at the label's Milanese showroom. Vase-snatched florals in white and blue adorned dresses (short slipdresses, the kind that are looking to have a big resurgence for fall, as well as floor-sweeping numbers), tuxedo tailoring, and long, flowing trousers, some pleated enough to stand in for theater curtains should the need arise. The white and blue pattern alternated with a kitsch version (the house's own word!) in canary yellow, complete with lovebirds nesting. The prints translated as well into bags and accessories, and all prints are done, Mrs. Cavalli reminded us, in-house in Florence. Those are the resources at her disposal, and she makes use of them with aplomb. If she and her cohort are using their means to experiment with laying glitter into print, as they did here, fair to think there's a client out there looking for it. (No pointing fingers, but a clump of Russian buyers in the showroom looked intrigued.) For the rest, the simpler, prettier, lacier options show restraint and reward closer inspection. "The shapes are quite simple," Cavalli said, "but there are lots of details."