Designing his first Resort collection for Revillon, the Parisian furrier founded in 1723, newly installed creative director Andrew Heather faced a challenge: how to make fur relevant for a warmer season. He answered it by using fox and goat as an accent on lace. And not just any lace, but a lace he designed to resemble a civet's spots and stripes and also needle-punched with mohair, then cut into a black cocktail dress, worn with a long matching scarf tossed over the shoulders, as well as a peony pink T-shirt, skirt, and belted jacket. Another good idea: a mink redingote sheared so thin it could pass for silk velvet. Heather's is a discreet kind of luxury.

He's also got a practical streak, despite years spent in the couture atelier at Givenchy, and he exercised it today with a trench made from kangaroo leather, which he chose for its papery touch and its light weight.