June 06, 2012 New York
A girl can only design so many poufy party dresses. For more than half a decade, Londoner Roksanda Ilincic has traded in voluminous frocks, and when she wasn't doing those, jackets with serious shoulders. For Resort, she switched things up, thinking two-dimensionally—in the spirit of the artists Ellsworth Kelly and her longtime favorite Kazimir Malevich—about collaged shifts and camouflage prints. The change did her good; this was a winning outing for Ilincic, eye-catching and wearable in equal measure. One of the best looks was a simple sleeveless dress color-blocked in shades of navy, black, and white, worn over trim black pants, but there were lots of on-trend brights as well. A silken jumpsuit made from a camouflagelike floral print in aqua, fuchsia, red, and violet incorporated most of them. Trousers are an uncommon sight here, though you'd never know it from the persuasive case she made for the dress-over-pants look. A pair of empire-waist dresses looked like a consolation prize to fans of her previous collections, but Ilincic has moved on. It's a good bet her customers will with her.
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