A CFDA win for Accessory Design is nothing to sniff at, but Reed Krakoff
, who took home that prize this week, has bigger plans for himself and his two-year-old label. Krakoff is determined to carve out a signature look for his ready-to-wear—warm minimalism, he calls it—and step-by-step, he's doing it. Occasionally, his determination produces clothes that err on the overly conceptual side. Form trumped function on a sheer "X-ray" jacket with its inner construction on display, as well as on a blue python trench without sleeves. But mostly, he got the smart-special balance just right, cutting great-fitting jackets in look-at-me shades of orange and blue and putting the accent on sport with a zip-front track jacket and a chain mail-embellished sweatshirt.
For Resort, he's pushing himself in different directions. A strapless black cocktail dress with a woven raffia skirt looked new for him, as did the proportions of a diagonally slit, below-the-knee silk evening skirt teamed with a cobwebby lace top. Movement was a key talking point at yesterday's presentation; you get the sense that he wants to add some heat to his warm minimalism. Krakoff's brand of seduction will always be subtle, but a nude layered slipdress that gathered at one hip did have a nice little swing. Another positive development: a small frame day bag in a mash-up of exotic skins with a tough-chic chain strap.