June 11, 2012 London
But the designer contrasted the essential conservatism of such pieces with the subtle flamboyance of a coat and jacket in a Regency floral jacquard from Stephen Walters and Sons, who have been weaving silk in Suffolk since the 1720's. The contrast was the clearest illustration of the versatility with which Nicoll claimed he was courting a range of age groups and body shapes, perhaps a little ambitious given that these clothes had an innately athletic sensuality that seemed best suited to lithe young bodies. The lambskin shift in a beige-trimmed pale aqua, for instance. Or the hoodie. Or the bustier dress. Kudos to Nicoll that such looks would work equally on glittery Capri or gritty Kingsland Road, the East End artery that runs past his studio.