June 21, 2012 New York
While a bit of strange usually characterizes Marco Zanini's runway shows for Rochas, in the intervening seasons of Resort and pre-fall, he tends to amp up the sweet. Some of his Fall inspiration—his own collection of Scandinavian pottery—seeped into his Resort lineup for the label, in the form of cigarette pants printed with the motifs. But there was also a daffy innocence to the new range, with its full-look printed pajama suits and its full-skirted ball gowns, more debutante than demimondaine, especially when shown with gloves. A Lurex sweatshirt looked like the perfect uniform for gym class at the University of Girl Power. Still, there's no shutting sophistication out. A group of lace-inset dresses spoke to the womanly concern of cocktail fare, and a few lace-collared frocks hit on innocence and experience in one. So did two women whose images appeared on Zanini's mood board: Deborah Turbeville's Violetta and Wes Anderson's Margot Tenenbaum.
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