June 05, 2012 New York
The highlight of the Theyskens' Theory Resort collection is Olivier's new take on the suit, its sleek jacket worn with a jumpsuit cinched loosely around the waist, as if you'd tied a sweatshirt over your hips. "It just feels cooler than a regular suit," he said. Agreed. Since arriving at Theory two years ago, he's put his stamp on everything from tailoring to knitwear to denim; he's even done gowns. His special skill has been to make all of them—with the exception, maybe, of those formal dresses—feel as easy as your favorite jeans. There were several contenders for that title here, including a light blue trouser-cut style and another slouchy, faded pair with a rust-tone wash. Fans will collect the sweaters with their innovative open-weave knits and graphic intarsias. And we predict a waiting list for the perfect little black leather perfecto that Theyskens is hoping his customers wear with its matching shorts. For Theyskens, the cut is the thing. We also spotted a couple of seriously big perfectos, a good indication that the developing oversize trend will continue into Resort and Spring.
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