It's a looser, lighter, dare one say Springier pre-Spring at Vionnet. "We're moving toward more femininity, a more sensual collection," explained sister designers Barbara and Lucia Croce, who are rounding the bend of their third collection for the label. The duo have made pragmatism their beat at the brand, changing course from the more evening-leaning one charted by former designer Rodolfo Paglialunga, but drape is at the heart of Vionnet and they don't reserve it for after dark. Even their tailored pieces sway.

The designers emphasize motion and design in 360 degrees. They're great fans of asymmetry, and what looks one way from the front will often look different from the side or the back: a long silk cotton cloque skirt that plunges and rises or a gossamer-looking gown that surprises at the back with a giant bow. That one side of a print skirt is plisséd is no guarantee that the other will be.

If the Croces are still honing their look at the label, there's also plenty to recommend. The oversized rose floral they debuted had a garden sweetness, especially when you got close and saw that it was patched and stitched, not printed. That emphasis on texture runs throughout, as in the cocktail dress made of cascading layers of sherbet-colored sheers or the finale evening looks, where that opening rose came rendered in sequins.

Yes, evening, too. "As women, it's important for us to propose a complete wardrobe," the designers said. Including, incidentally, jewelry. Their asymmetrical gold-tone bangles were a quiet standout.