Josef Hoflehner is not exactly a household name. But it was the photographer’s cinematic shots of ships and sailors that enticed Alberta Ferretti to the sea. The marine theme was unmistakable in this collection, evident in everything from peacoats and sailor pants to a painterly jacquard suggestive of moonlit waves. Mrs. Ferretti’s interpretation of oceangoing had a naval accent—her elaborate gold metallic embroideries were inspired, she explained, by the insignia on officers’ uniforms. More generally, thinking about workwear galvanized her rather atypical foray into denim: Ferretti’s take was to feminize classic denim shapes by incorporating pliant black wool into her garments. A pair of narrow, dark denim jeans, for instance, was all snug black wool in the back. The metallic embroidery served as another distinguishing element—you wouldn’t mistake Ferretti’s jeans for any pairs at the Barneys Denim Bar. For drama, though, you really couldn’t beat this collection’s dyed furs, the most tempting of which was a medley of pony-skin, mink, and fox dyed in varied shades of navy, black, and blue. A coat to drown in, you might say. Especially on #polarvortex day.

Ferretti’s Pre-Fall 2014 collection had a coda. In addition to the ready-to-wear, she created ten limited-edition looks of demi-, or at any rate, semi-, couture. These were red-carpet-ready concoctions of sequin, gold Chantilly lace, and great froths of tulle, plus a smattering of embroidered separates and the odd non-embellished gown of duchesse or chiffon. Mrs. Ferretti knows what she’s doing with this kind of thing; the looks erred on the safe side, but there will be customers for them.