January 06, 2014 New York
The really unexpected flavor in this collection, however, was its Chicano influence. Lewis used to live in East L.A., and he cherry-picked a variety of references from that experience, everything from the architectural shape of a blouse's scalloping, to the Aztlán motifs in prints and intarsia knit sweaters, to the various chain-link jacquards. There was also a distinctly East L.A. vibe to his Dickies-shaped pants, and an overt nod in the "Mamacita" cashmere knit, which ought to be a fast seller. Ultimately, the clothes landed on the right side of the line between celebration and appropriation—more than anything, Lewis seemed to want to capture that certain fierce chola attitude and see if it could survive translation into luxury separates. It did, with a little help from a few scrunchies.