January 07, 2014 New York
A double vest, for example, was actually one waistcoat paired with a belt that resembled the bottom of another. Dickeys and detachable cuffs created the look of a white button-up underneath a sweatshirt, while denim was patched into wool jackets to give them lightness. When there was volume, it was in the shoulders. A leather dress, fashioned after a bomber jacket, was big up top but curved in at the waist to create an exaggerated shape.
While the three-piece suits looked like the shrunken version of a slick banker's uniform, the masculinity was softened just a bit by tortoiseshell PVC toppers. "It shakes up the gray monochrome," Bui said. Each look was styled with Bui's "mannish" cowboy boots, which have sold briskly over the past few seasons. The sharp footwear epitomizes the aggressive, not-too-precious look Bui typically goes for. But more important, like almost everything else in this collection, the boots are easy to wear.