January 08, 2014 New York
Freedom and independence were the words Cédric Charlier bandied about today, as he talked about the inspiration he gleaned from a recent travel jaunt. A word he might have used, as well, was romance: Charlier's calf-grazing plissé skirts, fuzzy sweaters and bouclé coats, and emphasis on blush and silver gave this collection a kind of daydream-y quality that felt new from this designer. There were plenty of matter-of-fact items as well, like the blue button-down with rounded shoulders worn with matching narrow cropped pants, and a boxy silk jumpsuit. These were typically sharp. Likewise, Charlier's pop colors and printed neoprenes added the electric kick he likes in his collections. But the neoprene itself was notably soft—satiny, almost—and the blocked dresses with black strap detailing had a gentler attitude than the similar looks he showed on his runway for Spring. He's not a designer in any danger of oversugaring his clothes, but in this instance, a little sweetness went a long way.