January 06, 2014 New York
The most eye-catching looks at last season's Chloé show were undoubtedly Clare Waight Keller's goddess-y pleated pieces. Those pleats came off so strong, indeed, that some of her other good ideas flew relatively under the radar. But not to worry: The designer repeated herself here, reviving Spring's sexy, side-slit skirts with little tap shorts underneath, not to mention that collection's Mannerist blouses and its graphic lace and curving seams. Much to her credit, Waight Keller made all this look pretty fresh—and anyway, why should good ideas go in the bin after one outing? This time, she introduced a different kind of girlish inflection, with lots of waterfall ruffles, and worked that Chloé signature flirtiness against outerwear cocoonish and graphic. Piped wraps and short jackets in double-face wool had a ton of appeal; the knockout, however, had to be the reversible shearling blanket coat, patchworked in varying textures of shearling on one side and blocked in panels of printed shearling on the other. Just the thing for the polar vortex, you'd have to say.
See all Timeline