Combining sharp tailoring with motorcycle-inspired elements is a winning formula at Costume National
. For Pre-Fall, Ennio Capasa took those ideas and gave them a graphic twist, updating signature biker jackets and suiting separates with a variety of optical motifs. Black-and-white chevron, broken line, and crosshatch patterns clashed harmoniously on several looks, while pops of ruby red added a bit of warmth to the collection. As usual, the outerwear was particularly strong. Highlights included an asymmetric, shin-scraping topper with raw seams that had a rock 'n' roll edge, as well as color-blocked, bonded leather Perfectos featuring laser-cut appliqués. Another noteworthy fabrication shown on one of the T-shirts here was a specialty polyester treated to give it a feathered fur effect. Elsewhere, the designer experimented with high skirt slits and interesting evening proportions, such as a strapless peplum tunic paired with ultra-relaxed wool trousers and elbow-length gloves.