What's the French for "kicking it up a notch"? Damir Doma
is keen to elevate his signature label, and he worked hard this season to get that point across. He's hitched up with the manufacturer of Maison Martin Margiela's shoes for a line of his own, and he made it clear that the quality of his materials (a navy fils coupe, a spongy three-dimensional mesh—texture was key) has never been higher. Since launching his women's collection in 2011, Doma has tried on different sensibilities, vacillating between artsy, austere, and hip. He's had his successes, but his clothes have rarely looked as grown-up or as polished as a pair of slim-but-not-tight sleeveless sheaths he did here. The version in a graphic green, black, gray, and white knit was especially compelling. Also sharp: a neatly tailored jacket with raw-edged lapels. Brancusi-inspired buttons and brooches spotted here and there on outerwear made for an eloquent finishing touch.