The new Emporio Armani
lineup was a study in proportions: severe on the one hand, and on the other, flirty. The opening skirt (mid-calf, narrow) had something of the schoolmarm about it, but the second look combined a cropped jacket with high-waisted, full shorts—both in shocking pink. After four decades in business, Armani contains multitudes. With its eclectic mix—chalk stripe suits shared the racks with a watercolor-print pajama set—this collection made a point of it. Even if that meant it was difficult to discern the takeaway message, it wasn't hard to pull out a winner or two. We nominate a long double-breasted black coat that harkened back to Emporio Armani's early eighties beginnings, but with a more modern, close-to-the-body silhouette.