January 27, 2014 Paris
For Pre-Fall, he put a new emphasis on wearability, showing polished outerwear and neatly constructed trousers and pencil skirts. Scognamiglio has a way with a frilly blouse; the best here came in Chantilly with high, ruffled necks and the narrowest of sleeves. But he leaned too heavily on sweatshirts to give the collection a contemporary look and feel. They've become utterly predictable, and Scognamiglio didn't do himself any favors when he decorated his versions with a veiled Christ figure. Religious iconography is Riccardo Tisci's thing.